Posted on January 03 2018
The use of jacquard isn’t a new technology by any means. Although the jacquard was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1804, we are still using this technique to this day. The main modern use of jacquard would be to give the material and tissue at hand a more visually interesting and longer lasting effect. The reason why it is more visually interesting is because jacquards are fabrics with the pattern woven direction into the textile rather than printed on. This gives a sort of depth and layering when looking at a shirt. This is also seen as a high-end look and allows companies like Au Noir to differentiate their product from the competition by utilizing these jacquards. Take a look at the Pablo Jacquard shirt from Au Noir to see how they implement jacquard into their design. Everything from zebra skins to chevrons and sunbursts can be rendered in the weave, making jacquards a fantastic choice for adding texture.
To further understand the modern use of jacquards and why they are so special, we would have to look at the uniqueness of this jacquard weave. Jacquard weave is created through a loom process, which is programmed to raise each warp thread independently of the other threads. The design of the jacquard fabric is incorporated into the weave, instead of being printed or dyed onto the fabric. The loom attachment allows a much more versatile weaving process and a higher level of control. This can be seen on a number of the shirts we sell here, including this one.
Although not many companies or brands will use jacquards because they are costly, high-end brands will still use it, creating a lasting impression on consumers. The reason why jacquards are more costly is because the weave process is more time consuming and labor intensive than a basic weave. However, jacquard fabric is more stable and stretchy than fabrics created through the basic weave technique. Jacquard weaves can also be combined with various colors and types of threads. This provides beautiful and soft gradations of color tones and bold outlined patterns that are very complex, such as landscapes, portraits, and unique designs.
There are other types of looms that are also usable like the dobby loom. This type of loom is less expensive to run compared to the jacquard, but created much simpler patterned weaves. Dobby loom patterns are much less versatile. They are limited to designs that stretch over 40 threads, whereas designs made on a jacquard loom are virtually limitless.
Historically speaking, the dobby loom was much easier to run, but looking at present day, the jacquard is now computerized, making it simpler than ever. It not only makes the process of jacquard less time consuming, but the fact that there is a dependance on computers, makes the quality superior with ease.